LIGURIA

A land between the mountains and the sea, Liguria inevitably feels the characteristics of these two landscape extremes. One of the most unique images in the Liguria landscape is the cultivated terraced land surrounding the hill top towns reached on narrow, twisted roads: a demonstration of how human intervention has changed the landscape, enriching it without distorting it. The olives and basil are the only principle fruits grown in this region in tiny lots "ripped" with fatigue from nature to become a symbol of the popular Ligurian tradition.

Beach tourism is the most famous in the region thanks to the mild climate and the typical Mediterranean vegetation which makes it an ideal place for excursions on the many coastal and inland hiking paths. Discover the seaside and valley towns to taste a cuisine that is rich in aroma and original pairings.

There are many occasions for inquisitive tourists to visit both the coast and the inlands. On the coast, the medieval town of Noli, a tiny sea republic is worth a visit, as is Albenga with a well preserved historic centre and Alassio, an ancient tourist centre with ancient traditions. San Remo, beyond the modern Italian Song Festival, can boast a medieval past that is evidenced by the splendid cathedral San Siro, among other tourist sights. The inland areas between Loano and Albenga provide opportunities for visiting caves in the Grotte di Toirano. Beyond the underground lakes, halls and rooms, the guided tour will allow you to discover the bear cemetery and some fascinating traces left over from prehistoric eras (around 12,500 years ago).

DON’T MISS THE FESTIVAL

The festival of St. Mary Magdalena and the “Dance of Death” in Taggia (IM)

The festival of St. Mary Magdalena in Taggia takes place the last week in July and has ancient roots. Legend tells that in the long travels of Mary Magdalena (1st century A.D.) before reaching Provence, where she died, she stopped in the caves near Taggia. Near that grotto in the ninth century, the Benedictine brethren built a church and a hermitage, where religious functions took place in the month of September, a time when the areas were filled with people collecting chestnuts. The "chestnut mass" continued to be celebrated by the secular group of St. Mary Magdalene, even after the brethren left in 925. The cult of the Saint has ancient roots that are strongly woven in the traditions and local lifestyle.

The festival continues Saturday evening with a roaring procession that goes from the hermitage in Taggia with sounds of the band and no lack of firecrackers. On the fields surrounding the hermitage, a dinner is eaten of dried cod and soup; the fall of eventide is a celebratory time, while the Sunday mass is dedicated to the gathering of the faithful. The festival ends triumphantly with “u bau de a morte” (the dance of death) and the distribution of bunches of lavender to all those present.

THE DANCE OF DEATH.  In this last phase, incredibly archaic symbolism arises that is tied to an ancient pagan rite. The origins of the dance are arcane and mysterious: the beginning is cheerful and wild, to the rhythm of music that is similar to a tarantella, and there are two “mimes” acting out the scene. Suddenly the “death” of one of the dancers causes the “desperation” of the other, up to the unexpected “resurrection” of the first followed by a wild almost Bacchus styled dance. It is all compared to the cyclical nature of the seasons: the happiness of the yearly harvest, the sad winter and the coming of spring, bringing new vital energy.

Another characteristic and symbolic gesture is the “Maddalenanti” who offer bunches of lavender in sign of friendship. The qualities of this aromatic plant, which thanks to its light perfume, make it a common essence used for laundry. In Christian symbolism it stands for virtue and purity, but its branch is also considered as an amulet for protection from disgrace and obsessions and a talisman that attracts prosperity and fecundity.

THE WINES IN LIGURIA

This region has a truly singular landscape suspended between the sea and mountains, the wine production is not abundant, but it is widely appreciated by the experts.

Starting from the province of La Spezia you will immediately be able to taste one of the best Italian whites: Cinque Terre and the more famous sweet version, Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà, which is aged for 4-5 years. Right at the border of Tuscany and the DOC zone for Colli di Luni, cultivated in vineyards with chalky clay soil, with excellent results especially in the red wines.
A great deal has been written about the Cinque Terre area: an enchanting sea, an unequalled coastline and well-equipped tourism facilities. However, if you have already seen it, head towards the inlands where you will find welcoming towns, the characteristic terraced vineyards and the first ramifications of the Apennines: Calice al Cornoviglio, Santo Stefano Magra, Varese Ligure and many others. In Castelnuovo Magra you will find the Enoteca pubblica della Liguria e della Lunigiana, a public cantina hosted in the Municipal building from the seventeen hundreds, where you will be offered regional wines and those from the nearby province of Massa Carrara.

The westerly Riviera offers its fair share of good wines to taste. Near Genoa, they produce a great white wine that is delicate and slightly fruity: Portofino. In the province of Savona and Imperia, where the earth is bathed by many streams, the land is more fertile and provides a larger choice of wines and more diffused local production. You should try the Barbarossa, which is a mellow rosé, Campochiesa, which is offered in both red and white, and Lumassina with a golden colour. Pigato secco, is one of the favourite wines on the Ligurian coast, Vermentino di Pietra Ligure, makes a superior wine for seafood, Rossese, is a superior red and Dolceacqua, is a noble wine that is much sought after and difficult to find outside the area where it is produced.

THE FLAVOURS OF LIGURIA

The sea is king in Liguria, it is truly the marine contrast to this sub-alpine region. The region has it own unique physiognomy that is extremely dynamic. It was born from the need to deal with the characteristics of the land, which are beautiful yet difficult, being caught between the mountains and the sea.  The work of reclaiming bits of land to cultivate was an arduous task. The sea in Genoa did the rest, and the cuisine in Liguria has many original native flavours that characterize it as does the character of the people themselves.

THE PASTA.  Though the traditional cuisine in Liguria, as in the other regions, tends towards the use of local products, it does not refuse ingredients from other areas in some dishes. This is the case for chick peas, which are milled into a fine flour and used in the farinata, which is a flatbread that is always topped with olive oil, the pride of Liguria, and cooked in the oven with simple ingredients that vary from one place to another including, black pepper, finely chopped onion and rosemary. Another dish made from chick peas is panissa, a rustic style polenta topped with olive oil and onions. The pasta course for excellence in Liguria is definitely the trenette con il pesto, a long flat pasta that is generally made by hand cooked with green beans and potatoes and covered in the renowned pesto made from basil, pine nuts, grated parmesan and pecorino cheese and a drop of olive oil.

SECOND COURSES.  Seafood based specialties are not that numerous considering the abundant coast line. In fact Ligurian cuisine was defined as “the catch of the day” of land-fishermen, with an ample presence of vegetables in the meat dishes as well. One example: the cima ripiena, is made from calf’s stomach sewn like a pouch that is filled with a rich combination of sweet breads, brains, peas, pine nuts and ground meat with salt, pepper, wine, bay and marjoram.  The open end is then sewn shut, tied with a string and boiled for approximately two hours in salted water. After cooking it is cooled between two weights and cut into slices.

THE DESSERTS. The dual character of Ligurian cuisine is well represented in its desserts. Biscotti alla genovese, bring long sea voyages to mind, austere dried bread enhanced with fennel seed or the pesche ripiene, which are peaches filled with almonds and amaretto cookie crumbs. Bread mixed with milk, egg and sugar is a classic example of "return home" dinners, served with the exquisite fruits grown locally.